Banff Day3 - Sulfur Mountain and Sanson Peak

We went to Banff July 8-12! Hit a lot of spots, hiked 38 miles in 60 hours and the series of blog posts that were still pending never made it.. thanks to covid recovery, Half dome prep and hike, a sick kid at home, not to mention other major events that don't merit a mention here for weird reasons!

Finally getting to finishing that blog series (as I have to clean out photos on my iPhone) over the long weekend. The last post in this series is here..

We had already had a long day hiking in Lake Louise, Lake Moraine, Paradise creek, Johnston Canyon, Inkpots and now we were told that if we got lucky, we could go to the top of the highest local mountain in Banff downtown area called Sulfur mountain.. that too on a gondola. Then if there is enough time at the top, go hike to Sanson peak on that mountain range. 

San is my lucky charm. She has good parking karma! We managed to find parking at the gondola, get tickets right in time and were up and away! Once up there, we saw a bunch of folks walking to Sanson peak. That is a mile plus walk one way on a nice boardwalk that is set up. It has a lot of steps though. San was hesitant about us making it to the top of the peak and back, in time for our return Gondola. We had an hour and 20 mins at the top total and when we realized this hike was staring at us, 10 mins had gone by. 

We did make it to the top and back with 5 minutes to spare. San was super proud of me (let this blog remember that even if I don't, as such moments are rare) for making it after all that hiking. 

If you are in Banff, don't miss this. It is a literal copy of the gondola in Interlaken, Switzerland. In fact the gondola is made by the same company! The scenic beauty of Banff as you go up a fast gondola is amazing!

 

Did I already tell you about San's photo skills improving on this trip?

It was a long way down and up to Sanson peak.. after all that previous hiking in the day! It was also a hot afternoon..

They had a few restaurants in the four story building at the top (very similar to Interlaken) but they were very crowded and expensive. We didn't have the time to even get a chai there with the lines. In Switzerland, they do some crowd control, here they don't. 

The views along this walk were just amazing! 

All said and done, we had a great experience on Sulfur mountain. After this it was a quiet ride back to our hotel area, to the desi place for one last dinner. The Indian resturant did not disappoint. I asked for the paneer again and gobbled it up. If I visit Banff again, the number one reason might as well be the Paneer butter masala at the Indian curry house! 

guess it is lunch time as I am typing the blog... Back to Banff..this photo was taken in the middle of the road as we crossed. They block the main road so restaurants can seat folks outside for the evening. Great place to walk. Lots of flowers, decorations! Should visit this Christmas time if we go again!

A video of the Sulfur mountain experience.. 

Don't miss it!

The next morning, we made a few stops before getting back to Calgary airport. Every stop was interesting..

More to come..

A change in perspective

Post Half dome, things seem to be different. Mentally.. those jitters of making it through 3-4 hour hikes in local parks seem to be gone. Granted it is the first and only data point, but it counts for something. 

It is rare for me to walk alone with San. Today we decided to just go and enjoy some together time and went to Wunderlich's Bear Gulch and Meadow trails. I was really not sure of being able to walk with the pace of a group and stress myself out. The last three miles of the half dome trip were still on my mind. After coming out of yoga class yesterday, thought my hamstrings were not up to it, but surprise surprise!! We did 7 miles in 2 hours 10 minutes including a Chai break and a few photo breaks. The photo setup times were a longer than usual. We were doing a steady pace and went up 1400+ feet and came down. Was able to walk as usual after the first 15 minutes..something loosened up somewhere and things turned out okay!

We got to see the sun rise over the bay area on what was a beautiful morning!

Not a bad start to a long weekend!

Here are some more pictures..

This place is just beautiful.. the sunlight streaming through the trees was like watching a dance!

Wasn't sure of the first one.. so took another one. Running from an iPhone placed delicately over a tree stump with a few other twigs to create a makeshift tripod has its challenges.. 

Went and got this trail special UV protect long sleeve hoodie from REI after a friend got it on the Half dome hike. It is very convenient and light and it is also thermal wear. Only thing is I should have worn my BYSJ shirt on the outside instead of on the inside. My usual T-shirt was soaked! 

That was an accidental click with the selfie being in portrait mode. It blurred the background, but turned out to be an interesting photo..so keeping it!

By the time the sun comes up the grass fields start looking like lava beds!

While making tea at 5:15 AM to get ready might not be appealing, drinking it after reaching the top of the trail, definitely makes up for it!

and finally a photo of me up inside a hollow tree..

This park is lovely and you get parking if you go early enough. Let's hope the rest of the long weekend goes smoothly!

I am starting to like walking alone with San as she is taking better photos every day! This is a good sign, given we will be empty nesters next year. 

Half Dome hiking experience

This weekend we finally made it to the top of Half dome. This was not the usual weekend hike. It was an experience. Something that will stay with me for a long time. Three years ago, would have thought this impossible.. thanks to COVID, the regular walks that turned to short hikes, the short hikes that turned to longer and longer hikes.. we eventually made it to this point! This is all thanks to the ladies who push their hubbies in our hiking group. 

We had the permit months ahead. We all had our ups and downs and last minute setbacks, but somehow things came to place for the most part and we made it. There were intense planning sessions, zoom calls, training hikes (Mission peak twice back to back, El sombroso in half a day, Black mountain with extra load etc.), but none actually close to the real deal. 

San always told me that she was not sure if I would make it to the top of Half dome.. but "if you make it past the sub dome, you will make it to the top". Heights was not an issue for me or almost rapelling down. The slow and steady climb for hours was the challenge. 

To top things off, the one day we left the kid alone at home, she got sick and we had to drive back as fast as we could.. after hiking for 15 hours, drove back 4 hours straight. Not sure if my legs are sending back signals to the rest of the body anymore.. they have gone on strike after the events of yesterday!

Usually this blog starts with pictures.. but this time, starting with a video of the entire hike.. stitched together from 10 second clips recorded at around every mile.. 

and now for pictures..

We got a glimpse of the golden face of Half dome as the sun set across it the previous evening. We were going to the top of this thing the next day! That realization was something in itself... we checked out the parking situation at the closest lot to the trailhead and decided it would be best to park there and start. Otherwise it would have added another two miles to our trip. The plan was to leave the Curry Village lodgings at 4AM, start hiking by 4:15. 

we were on plan!

The first two hours were difficult because it was very smoky. The air quality was bad at the lower altitudes. We just kept going. That is mars you see in the picture through the haze! It was a new moon day and before this early light, it was pretty dark.

As the sun came up, we were treated to amazing views and colors. We were already above Nevada falls by sunrise. 

Then the mosquitos came.. in numbers! They preferred me for some reason. Having learned that lesson from the Clouds rest hike, this time I was ready to turn into the mosquitos bride with a net around my face. 

You see the first light strike the half dome and realize how amazing, creation is! 

it is something !!

Took a lot of panos, but nothing topped this one from the golden hour!

Shortly after this we managed to take a wrong turn and instead of hitting Nevada falls, we ended up walking towards Illilouette falls! Luckily we realized we were on the wrong path and turned back. that added another 30 minutes to our effort.. but we laughed it off and kept going.

She keeps smiling like that, I can go hiking hour after hour.. and if you have a bunch of giggling ladies who lift up the groups mood, any hike is easier... (note .. I just said easier.. not easy!). The next two hours were a blur. Nothing eventful, no amazing views.. we were going to Yosemite village and it was a slow and steady climb. the group was slowly losing steam visibly, but we kept going.

Then we were at the start of the sub dome to show the ranger our permits and ID's. Every day only 300 folks are allowed up on the cables to go to the top. We did some rough calculations to see what percent of folks make it to the top of the sub dome, then make it to the top of the cables. If 2/3 reach, that is 200 people a day and the cables are open for a 100 days ? That is 20,000 people a year. They have an average of two fatalities on the last part or so we were told. We just didn't want to be part of that statistic. Tied up the shoes, took some electrolytes and off we went!

The sub dome is indeed the hardest part of this hike. It is a steep climb on rocks with a high risk of slips and falls. The camera never came out during this part. Was just reciting mantras (yes, that works) and kept going one step at a time. There are no photos of me clambering up.. here is my friend walking up the last part..

Correction.. two of my friends sent pictures of me on the subdome.. so here it is.. we go up this and then come down and up the horn sticking up on the top right!

Making it to the top of sub dome! For once the person who is considered the photographer in the group did not take enough photos but the rest of the gang did! Again, it is great to go with friends!

There is no trail anymore.. it is just a test of will power at this point. Once you climb up sub dome, you climb down a bit to reach the cables.

The cable section tests your fear of heights. Need gloves (preferably Gorilla gloves), but I just used the regular costco winter gloves. Many folks made it up and realized they didn't have gloves and were asking folks if they could borrow?!

You are going up a 60 plus degree slope with wire cables and a bunch of 2x4's on the floor every 8 feet to stop yourself. At one point there is no 2x4's and you have to rapell down a 20 foot stretch. Luckily for us there was not a big crowd here. Still there were two folks who held us up. A lady who went halfway up and got scared and just clung on to a pole and refused to move and a guy whose backpack ripped open halfway and hurtled water and gatorade bottles on the people below. A water bottle missed me by a few inches as it came down. You see the power of gravity as a water bottle hurtles so fast from above!

It is a good idea to leave backpacks below (however one of our friend's backpack got chewed on by squirrels as they tried to get the food inside! So there is no easy way out. Best to go with backpacks where the zippers don't give. Let's just say we got lucky!

Once there at the top, there is a flat open space and a ledge... this ledge is a photo op dream.. folks on the flat side can take pictures of the people on the ledge. So I gave the camera to San and went to the ledge. She started screaming.. everyone on the top probably thought I was on some kind of suicide mission. In any case, did take some pictures. I started trying a standing bow and there was a mini tremor from San's screaming from the other side a good 200 meters away. So backed off and came back to try yoga poses in the flat side of half dome. 

There was an actual conversation with a guy on the cables as we passed each other.. he asks me "what is a 60 day challenge?" and I explained it to him, while hanging on for dear life! Told him that is hard, but this is like doing a 60 day challenge in 15 days!  Of the twenty or so folks who were at the top with us, everyone was impressed with the yoga effort.. a bunch of folks even asked me if I taught yoga! I was in splits hearing that.. pun intended!

There was more screaming after that toe stand and I just had to come down..

Here are the highlight pictures..

that picture on the ledge was something!

then we started the long walk down. We had a good break to wait for water to filter for all of us. Almost all of us ran out of the 2.5 to 3 liters of water per person. I got an allergic reaction to something and my hands broke out in rashes as well as my inner thighs got all bloody thanks to allergies and sweaty wet clothes. Should have worn dri-fit clothes instead of cotton pants. That is a lesson for the future! 

We decided to walk on the mist trail for the last leg and see Nevada and Vernal falls on the way down. While it was a mile shorter, it was a lot harder coming down slippery steps. Next time (when there is one), we will come back on the JMT (John Muir Trail), the same way we went up. Longer is sometimes better!

Even with less water Vernal falls never ceases to amaze me!

We got back to the parking lot, knew that we had to rush back to a sick kid and didn't take a break. Just kept driving non-stop for 4 hours. San ate something and fed me while I was driving.. all the while trying to talk to the little one to make sure she was okay and had our neighbor come in and help. 

Made it before midnight. It is one thing to walk a few thousand feet for a few hours.. another thing to do it hour after hour for 15 hours. This graph tells it all..this is the most I have walked in a day since this health app showed up on the iPhone.. maybe the most in my life!

Now after that and 4 hours of non stop driving on windy roads in Yosemite and route 152, my legs are in bad shape. Have to rest, take it easy on the legs and recover for a few days!

All said and done.. this is something that I thought would be impossible in this lifetime. Thanks to all the yoga, the encouragement and support of the hiking group and the push from San, was able to make it. 

Fortunately, I am already recovering nicely and so is the little one. 

If you decide on going to half dome, no matter your age, do your research, plan well, get the right gear, train properly, go with the right group and you will enjoy the experience!

What next? We will wait for a few weeks and then ask ourselves the question!

Johnston Canyon trail to Ink pots - Banff highlight

The previous post in this series is here..

After visiting Lake Louise, Lake Moraine and doing the Paradise valley hike, we drove to Johnston Canyon. We knew what we had to do..

Hike to lower falls, then upper falls and depending on how we were doing at that time, go all the way to Ink pots. Given we had already hiked 6+ miles by then, this was going to be another 8 miles. Our decision was to go at a steady pace.

Lower falls came and went,

we cross the river and then go along it on a catwalk

There is a small tunnel you go through (there is a line) and you get to see the falls up close and personal..

Then we start towards upper falls. It is a decent, easy to moderate hike to Upper falls.  At this point the crowd has already thinned down and most people turn back..Upper falls is beautiful.. 

tried a few long exposure shots..

we walk to the top of the falls and then deviate from the river to go up the mountain range..

Ink pots deserves a blog post of its own, but given the rate at which I am able to blog, just going to write this as one long post..

you walk past Upper falls through a meadow with flowers that has an amazing vista!

Maybe 10% of folks go past Upper falls to Inkpots, as it is considered a hard hike. We had to go.. San for one actually offered to turn back, but I refused. It is not everyday I am coming to Banff, so off we went. 

The scenery that awaits you once you reach is worth it.. there are 5 to 6 pools of different depths which have different shades of blue and green because of the sediment and the depth of the pools.. the reflections of the mountains in the pools makes for amazing pictures.. I composed this shot and asked a college kid to take this picture.. my camera was on the floor at one end of the pool.. once she saw the end result, she requested me to take the same shot on her phone.. before you know it, there was a line for that!  San was impressed by my photo composing skills for once!

some more shots at this beautiful location..(you can see it in the video also)

we were really happy we did this hike! 

A video of the hike..

It was a hard hike only because it goes up and straight down to a valley to Ink pots. That means you climb up, climb down and up again on the way back. That saps you mentally. 

Fortunately for us, we met an amazing local couple who were senior to us, but do this hike regularly. We started talking to them and while San and Mr. Local started walking faster, I really hit it off with Mrs. Local and we just kept talking and walking. The last 4 miles was a breeze.. before we knew it, we were down and almost 30 minutes ahead of when we thought we will get down. Sometimes, a great conversationalist is all that is required to get me moving fast again! I didnt take a single photo on the way back. Just walked and talked. 

We really enjoyed their company and had lunch with them. We had packed parathas from Indian Curry house and they had their packed lunch. We decided to stay in touch and started driving back towards Banff. Our plan (which they thought was going to be luck driven, given parking and ticket availability) was to go to the Gondola and go up Sulfur mountain! 

More on that later.. 

This is a must see place in Banff.. the Ink pots is a hard hike, but don't miss it. Take enough water and pace yourself and go.. 

We made friends for life on this trip and that made it all the more special!

Lake Louise and Lake Moraine

The previous post in this series is here..

Finally getting started on day 3 of our Banff trip posts. 

We had a rental car and this was our full day of planned activiteis where we were going to be on our own. The idea of having an entire days agenda under San's control, where I tag along without saying "No" to anything (part of the agreed terms of the trip) was scary. 

My idea of visiting a lot of places in one day, involves going to the Patel points, getting pictures and moving to next place. San has changed. She plans a 2 to 3 mile hike in every place from the parking lot to some place within the park at every one of these locations. Now that I got that out of my system, it is actually a good idea if I can keep up. The pictures are better, as is the experience (I am saying this on my own... she is not looking over my shoulder! really!)

We got up at 5 AM, drank some Wagh Bakri instant tea (we have started to like this tea on travels now) and started driving towards Lake Louise and Lake Moraine. Our plan was to go to the farthest point first which was Moraine. We drove all the way up to see a cop divert us. The parking was full apparently at 6:30 AM when we reached the place. "Lake Lousie still has some parking left.. if you go there you will make it".. is what he said and we zipped there.

We were in a long line at the vending machine. There were folks who were sending back people to go get the license plates of the rental cars as the machine asks you to enter it. I stopped a few of them and said "please look at your key from rental car.. usually the license number is written on it". This saved some time as the people were blocking the machine waiting for a person to come back with info!! American tourists understandably get a bad name in Banff.

We walked to the trailhead towards the lake and were just dazed by the view of the lake. It was just so serene and beautiful.

There were already groups of folks taking pictures at the lake front. We walked around the lake to a less crowded place and got some pictures.

After walking around the lake and looking at the giant hotel in front of the lake, we decided to head back towards Banff.

On the way back, surprisingly the cop said "we have two spots open. you can go to Lake Moraine!". It was our lucky day. So we drove from the main freeway to Lake Moraine parking which is a good 15-20 minute drive. Once there, the parking lot incharge says "we made a miscalculation. we let two extra folks in by mistake". We told him "we are here to go see the lake, take pictures and leave. Need 20 mins tops!". So he relented and let us park for 20 mins in the loading zone and said "I am going to stand here near your car. So please be back!". 

We ran in towards the lake, saw similar crowd, started walking around lake to the farthest point we could in 6 minutes and got some photos and ran back. While this lake is very similar to the Lake Louise in the way it looks, it has a more rocky feel to it. It is also a lot quieter. 

There are many trails that take you to the high points in the local mountains around.. so you get a birds eye view of the lake. We did not have time to do such a hike here. Going to Banff for just a weekend, limited us timewise. This was more of a sampler trip!

We kept our promise and started driving back.

Both these lakes are absolutely breathtaking. Plan to spend a few hours at each lake, go on a trail, do a little picnic around the place if possible!

Our next was supposed to be Johnston canyon and a long hike there.. but we were early. On the way out of Moraine lake, there is a hike in Paradise valley. We decided to hike this trail. 

will post that next..